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    Getting Ready - Part 2

    When it comes to treating and caring for your garden there are tools to help you with this task as well.

    They can be divided into TWO MAIN TYPES

    (i) protecting plants (mechanical tools)
    (ii) applicators (insecticides/fungicides)

    Covered Frame

    oftentimes a custom wooden box, (18” to 2’ x 8’ high)
    with some netting or even protective covering like glass of chicken wire)
    Retains heat, moisture and protects the plants from cold or extreme heat
    Keeping plants safe early in the starter phases are very important

    Stiff, Tin, Cardboard Or Tar Paper Collars
    inches high
    placed around the stem
    penetrates an inch or so into the soil
    positioning, support and protection

    Powder Gun Or Hand-Power, Compressed-Air Sprayers
    applying poison powder or wet sprays,
    different nozzles and misters
    non-clog and automatic types are seen as more desirable
    For larger gardens, consider a barrel pump and extension rods for fruit-trees or vines for example.
    Look for tools that preferably throw a continuous stream or spray larger capacity (less trips to refill)
    Brass withstands the chemicals better

    Harvesters
    loosening root-type veggies like onions, beets, turnips
    cutting spinach, carrots, parsnips or deeply rooted veggies might require a puller with some leverage to not strain or hurt your back. Fruit-pickers with long handles are best for orchards and larger trees.

    Garden care Utilities like pruning knifes and a pair of pruning shears
    Plant supports
    such as stakes, trellises, wires, and more
    enables cultivation and easy access, ,as well as beautification and that professional look added to your garden

    Ask and answer yourself when it comes to the tools you opt to use in your garden:

    What types are available?
    How much does it cost?
    What are its features, strengths, shortcomings?
    Look for comfort and ease of use, no strain.
    How to care and maintain the tools best.



    Feeding the Soil

    Knowing which manure and fertilizers to use is critical for the health and success of your vegetable patch and backyard produce garden.

    Most of the plant nutrients your veggies need will come from the soil. That much we have learned so far. It does not fall from the sky and not in thin air! Sometimes we fail to realize the importance of this aspect of our gardening and wonder why our crop yield is low, plants die or wither, do not thrive! WITHOUT NUTRIENTS/FOOD PLANTS WILL NOT GROW – THEY WILL DIE!

    Sounds simple and straight forward, but we forget that it matters what and how much is available to these plants for their optimal growth. Rich soil under-root and underfoot is essential! There are plant foods that are readily available in the soil that can easily be absorbed and then there are those that have to undergo some natural degradation and breakdown for them to be useful, like compost elements and plant materials for example.
    You need to protect your plants for being under-nourished and not having enough of one or the other food-source at their disposal and ready absorption.
    Mostly water-soluble, these nutrients are carried and absorbed by the roots. Food , sun and water are all part of the mix that plants need, in moderation, frequently and consistently to grow, thrive and bear fruit!
    Absorbing these chemicals from the ground and surrounding soil is critical for growth. We have to place these at the plants’ ready disposal. If it is not present in the soil or patch we are working/planting in, we need to add, cultivate and work it in from the outside. It is up to us vegetable gardeners to produce the optimal conditions, including exposure, location, soil, food and water for our plants to thrive.

    Most gardeners will tell you that there are THREE BASIC COMPONENTS that have to be present for plants to grow, thrive and ‘feed’. They are

    (i) nitrogen,
    (ii) phosphoric acid, and
    (iii) potash.

    Most of our gardens will have trace elements and certain amounts of all three of these in varying concentrations and relations. Yet, there are in forms that are not easily and readily available or absorbed easily by plants. For any successful garden, you might have to add these to the soil, in order to create the optimal growing environment that you want and your plants demand and deserve.

    Modern products make this process extremely easy:
    There are lots containing all three in varying proportions depending on your needs and requirements
    What is already in the ground, is pretty much an unknown and unreliable as a source of sustenance
    Different plants have different needs

    Effectively ‘feeding the soil’ from the outside , to what plants really need, is oftentimes referred to as ‘manuring’ or soil-enrichment Putting the right nutrients in place and within the plants’ easy reach, close to the roots, watering and weeding regularly is the best that you can do. They will take all that they need from the soil. You need to have all three elements to promote growth. Also, remember as a general rule of thumb, that too much of a good thing is not necessarily good! Researching and applying these as needed are critical to ensure growth and crop yield.

    NOTE: SOMETIMES MANURE AND FERTILIZER ARE USED INTERCHANGEABLY IN LITERATURE AND OTHER SOURCES!

    Organic soil feeds are more popular as they add not only to the texture and richness of the soil, creating an optimal growth environment, plants seem to ‘naturally’ take to them somewhat better and thrive more.

    Fertilizer sometimes have more plant food, but add very little enhancement to the soil or stimulates more natural growth than the organic soil feeds.
    Most gardens take between 60-90 days to successfully yield and run. This implies that immediate feeding is required and necessary. The more organically broken down your feed soil is, the better your plants and vegetables will fare.

    For home gardeners, you can also fall back on your own garden yields for feeding your soil. Some examples of plant materials may include fallen leaves, grass clippings, vegetable tops and roots, green weeds, garbage, house slops, dish water, chip dirt from the wood-pile, shavings—any thing that will rot away and home-made compost.
    Decomposition is a natural process and keeping it covered, turning it ever so often, even if you are buying, it will do the trick and give your plants the best nutrition needed.

    You can also use the current growth and veggies and plow them under to feed the soil for next season. You do not have to merely depend on commercially available fertilizers and chemicals. There are natural alternatives that you can quite easily take advantage of as a backyard gardener, while doing your part for the environment!

    For larger gardens using under-plowing of crops like rye, field corn, field peas and crimson clover are often used to feed the soil.

    When using commercial fertilizers like most of us will inevitably have to do, we need to rely on adding to the available plant foods already in the soil. We need to give the plants what they need in order to live, grow, thrive and yield some crops. The best of both worlds so to speak to optimize the chances of a successful vegetable crop throughout the season.
    Balanced amounts of the three elements nitrogen, phosphoric acid or potash are available in a variety of ‘mixes’. You can buy them bagged or in bulk.

    Here is a sampling of some of the nutrients and mixtures available to you in the market to feed the soil:

    For quick-grow results try NITRATE OF SODA, rich in nitrogen stimulating plant growth in short time-frames, for high yield garden crops. Should be handles with care and following instructions carefully for application.
    LIME additions (every 3-5 yrs add to your soil for optimal yield)
    MURIATE and SULPHATE OF POTASH mixtures are often used for garden crops
    Nitrogen-rich sources (COTTON-SEED MEAL) feed and spread well, with guaranteed results in a short-time-frame
    Phosphate sources (GROUND BONE) lasts and are quite popular

    Most commonly used and freely available from retailers, home garden centers and niche landscapers, gardening specialists are the mixture fertilizers. As a backyard gardener you have no choice as to use and believe the claims that are on the bag, the product that is in the bag, for what it is, taken at face value. Read the label and pick the one that is most suitable for your needs and requirements. You will be well advised to buy the brand from which you will apparently get the greatest and value, yielding crops throughout the season!

    For garden crops, the mixed fertilizer you use should contain (about):


    Nitrogen 4%
    Phosphoric acid 8%
    Potash 10%

    Ensure that you mix the fertilizer through well before applying to your garden to optimize the growing environment.

    NOTE: If you are using manure and fertilizer, you might have to adjust these (use less fertilizer, more manure or visa versa, depending on what you are planting and the condition of the soil)

    Notes and guidelines for using fertilizers

    Commercially available (bagged/bulk fertilizer), can be applied with manure as supplement, or on its own
    Sowed or ploughed in, worked and evenly distributed into the soil.
    Crises-cross to ensure coverage
    Can be used also as top dressings, applied on the surface
    Adding it throughout the life cycle as the plants grow is also recommended. Thorough mixing (even with some soil) is required at all times PRIOR to adding it to your garden or plants
    Ensure that it does burn or damage the tender roots of young plants

    MASTERING SOIL ENRICHMENT IS KEY FOR YOUR VEGETABLE GARDENING SUCCESS!

    Additional readings on fertilizers and even asking an expert or two, might help you get ahead of your game and figure out how best to apply and utilize these in your own garden.

    If you do opt for the more natural, organic solutions and manure, ensure that you pick a product that is well decomposed and worked through and from grain-fed animals. You can also choose to supplement with fertilizer. Most of these feeding options are available, but check in your local area and ask around for what might be the best (local growers or farmers will be able to tell you).

    Preparing The Soil

    You are using typically a smaller, dedicated space for your vegetable growing and cultivating. Knowing what to feed and place within the plants’ reach is only half the battle. How to get it to them properly for optimal absorption and nutrient value, is also paramount.
    You can chemically and mechanically alter the soil and surroundings your plants will be growing and thriving in. Breaking up clumps, weeding, watering, airing, draining and more are all important aspects and basic skills that all vegetable gardeners should have.

    Here are some soil characteristics that will contribute positively to stimulating plant growth:

    Supply plants with key THREE ingredients
    Holding and dispersing moisture, sufficient drainage
    Water-soluble foods have to be accessible and available for plant roots to absorb them effectively
    How much food is present in the soil
    What is the physical condition of the soil – cultivating it will help
    You will need to add nutrients to any type of soil, regardless of what is present or not

    Types of soils that are commonly found and encountered by backyard vegetable gardeners:

    Rocky soils

    Very typical and common in most backyards, residential, urban areas
    Ground has suffered lots of significant decomposition by air, moisture and frost.
    They are mostly gravel-like, sandy or even clay-like type of soils.

    Clay Soils

    stiff, wet, heavy and usually “cold.”
    Typically holds a lot of water and not very suitable for vegetable gardening
    They often result in gardens yielding crops late and quite hard to weed, feed and handle in general.
    Adding texture and nutrients to it can help you create the optimal growing environment
    Some produce are better suited to this type of soil (celery for example)
    Drainage is of utmost important for this type of soil
    It will result in a higher yielding garden.
    Breaking it up thoroughly will also help
    Altering the soil texture by adding coarse vegetable manures, large quantities of stable, manures, even ashes, chips, sawdust, sand, will help you cultivate it better.
    Holds all additions well for optimal absorption, even if it does take longer to yield crops.

    Sandy Soil

    Made up mostly of sands - the opposite of clay soil mentioned above Keeping it as well compacted as possible will be your priority. Rolling it flat is recommended
    Fertilize, Plow, sow/plant immediately to make the most of this type of growing environment for vegetables.
    Add some clay soil or manure to give it more texture and better drainage, or opt for adding lime or gypsum, which will also add some bulk and moisture retention.
    Will yield early and quick results/crops
    Perfectly suite to growing melons, cucumbers, beans and some others homegrown favorites.

    Gravelly Soil
    The least desirable for vegetable gardens
    Not a lot of plant food and nutrients

    The ideal garden and growing environment is rich, cultivated, fine and rich, recognizable as ‘fertile’ and welcoming to plant life. Absorption and drainage in perfect balance. It does not clog, clump or pack down; easy to handle (both mechanical and chemically balanced) well supplied with all the organic materials and nutrients it needs to create a great space for plants to grow, thrive and yield great crops.

    Here is how to make the most of preparing your soil for your vegetable gardening needs:

    Whether you are plowing or digging it up by hand, spend the time preparing and cultivating the ground as best you can for the optimal results.
    You can opt for protection, like erecting a barrier, living hedge or a fence of sorts. Hand-plows, spring-tooth and spike-tooth cultivators, work exceptionally well in small spaces.
    Dig deeply and well into the sub-strata of the ground and soil to ascertain the type and condition, feeding requirements and cultivation priorities.
    It might be some of the hardest work you will be doing in your garden initially and as you set up, but it will be worth the effort later on.

    Plowing beginning in the spring is advisable. Chemicals and additions alone will not do it. Mechanical cultivation is key as well. You need both! Manure and fertilizer, soil feeding and toiling, tilling is necessary, working air and nutrients into it, creating a perfect growing environment, welcoming plant life and growth, is what you are after. This is your goal and purpose.
    Harrowing and breaking up the soil is important too. Break up large clumps and lumps, even getting a roller and putting some of the other tools in your arsenal to good use to optimize your soil are key.

    Fining, finishing and smoothing is a great way of preparing seed beds for planting. You can use an iron rake or harrow to do so.

    Soil has to be fine and aired, lightweight and easy to manipulate.

    Here are just some of the ways your vegetable garden will benefit from these preparatory stages and steps of feeding and cultivating:

    Availability and accessibility of plant foods in the soil available for absorption and use by plant roots
    Stimulated deep rooting and growth of quality plants that are stronger
    Water retention, drainage and absorption are improved significantly
    Storing and locking in nutrients and necessary elements for growth as opposed to it running off or damming up

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